By Taylor Cram
Over the weekend, my wife and I headed to the Providence Performing Arts Center to see a Connecticut based dance company. Pilobolus Dance Theater is an intense, original, and thought provoking company; their performance was imaginative, inventive, and enthralling. The final act saw the debut of a new dance called Megawatt. It was exciting and mind-blowing with raw intensity and originality. The company and choreography is ‘super genius’ (thanks to Sadat X from True Wine Connoisseurs for his phraseology). While the performance was flawless and brilliant, it was the originality that really got me thinking. Their ability to put a truly unique and identifiable stamp on a subject where exploration has been exhaustive over the years is what makes them special.
During the performance, three quarters of my mind was concentrating on the performance, while the small remaining quarter journeyed back and forth from Pilobolus to Owen Roe Winery. Owen Roe operates in an equally explorative, artistic, and competitive industry where being good and technically sound does not necessarily mean anything. In dance, being a technician is important but if you can’t hear the music or embrace the choreography than the performance can be flat and uninspired. In winemaking, you can understand appropriate PH levels and oak varieties but if you can’t feel the soil or the vineyard, even if the wine is technically sound, it will ultimately be unoriginal and not very satisfying.
Tasting through the wines of Owen Roe quickly establishes that David O’Reilly, the winemaker, understands his vineyard sites. The wines are unique and terroir-driven showing wonderful complexity, balance, and charm. If it makes any sense, the winemaker has embraced the choreography of the terroir. The wines speak of the land and the soil. It is very rare to taste wines that are truly original and unique. The great thing is that each wine is distinctively Owen Roe rather than each wine reminding us of something else. It seems like a pretty simple concept . . .
Three Reds from Owen Roe
The Rook 2008- Merlot (45%), Syrah (40%), Cabernet (15%) Wild nose of spice, game, red fruits, iron, and tobacco leaf. On the palate, it is jammy with minerality, herb, soft tannins, and a nice acidity. It is surprising to get so much complexity for the money. ~$15
Sinister Hand 2009- A blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (25%), Mourvedre (3%), and Counoise (2%). Spicy nose showing black fruit, raspberries, and blackberries. On the palate, it shows a fresh, brighter juicy red and black fruit. Very fresh and soft. While, it is young it is much friendlier than the nose suggests. From Horse Heaven Hills AVA, Washington. ~$27
Abbot’s Table 2009- A crazy blend of Zinfandel (25%), Sangiovese (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (10%), Grenache (13%), Blaufrankish (7%), Cabernet Franc (2%), Malbec (2%), Merlot (1%). Blaufrankish?! A wonderful nose of bright red fruit, dusty tannins, earth, and dry soil. It is delicious with soft, round, velvety, balanced fruit. There is a ton of subtle complexity that is lurking just below the surface. So tasty and inviting; worth every penny. From the Columbia Valley AVA, Washington. ~$26
Yakima Valley Red 2008- Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Merlot (33%), Cabernet Franc (31%). Killer nose of pepper, herbs, rosemary, red peppers, mustard leaf, and red fruits. On the palate, the fruit is luxurious and toned with lots of mustard leaf, pepper and herb. The finish packs plenty of supporting tannins and acidity. Very impressive. Sourced from three vineyards in the Yakima Valley AVA: Red Willow, Elerding, and DuBrul. ~$38
